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It was just before dawn as I pulled the ropes to climb to the top while taking deep breaths. The summit was a only a few feet away. I paused for a while, caught my breath and looked behind. The sky was a palette of orange and blue hues as spectacular mountains were silhouetted in the foreground.

The weather was bright and clear, I was at the top of one of the highest mountain passes on earth — “Gondogoro la Pass” at an altitude of 5,940 meters above sea level, was viewing some of the highest peaks on earth including Four of Eight-Thousander peaks K2 (Choghori), Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II.

I’d been advised to spend no more than 10 minutes on the summit and then descend to the other side.

Those 10 minutes very easily became the most beautiful moments of my life where I saw the first beam of sunlight hitting K2 — the second highest mountain in the world.

My journey to the top started at 10:00 am in the morning on July 10, 2012 when a team of 27 trekkers left for Ali camp from Concordia. It took us all about six to eight hours to reach to the camp. We crossed through hard rocks and the Vigne Glacier. In many places, the snow came up to our waist and it didn’t take long before our shoes and socks were drenched.

After reaching Ali camp in the evening, we tried to dry our shoes on the stove in the kitchen tent, but with little success. The trek to the summit was in just a few hours and we were back on our way, in the dark, without much rest.

We’d been told to reach the summit before dawn. Gondogoro Pass can only be crossed during the night; it involves steep climbs and abrupt descents. Without the sun, temperatures fall below freezing causing the snow to harden, hence lessening the chances of slipping or getting caught in an avalanche.

Time is a commodity in this environment and even minutes wasted can prove deadly.

While at the Ali Camp, we had our meal and then prepared ourselves for the treacherous pass. Taking a limited supply of food packs and water, we started our hike at 22:00 hours towards the pass in complete darkness aided by a little moonlight and our head torches.

The initial trek was difficult to navigate, with the snow being so hard, but eventually our path evened out to a more manageable climb. It took us an hour and half to reach to the base of the Gondogoro pass.

The enormous snow walls were illuminated by the moon light, as I watched a few head torches at a distance going to the top. A few of them were my trek mates, while the man ahead belonged to the rescue team for the Pass who was trying to make the route easy for those following.

Ropes were fixed on the steepest slopes and I had to fix the carabinar into it to prevent a fall. It was hard to climb, especially as the air thinned with altitude and breathing became more laborious.

It took me almost six hours to reach the summit. Even though there was a fear of avalanches, I had come too far to turn back. Reaching the top would be a seminal achievement in my life and a memory that would last me forever. After spending the allowed 10 minutes on the summit I began my descent.

To my surprise, the descent was steeper and harder than the ascent. We had to do it in daylight. I managed to descend down with the help of ropes while snow started to get soft. It took me two hours to climb down. Then I started my hike towards the beautiful lush green camp site of Khuspang, again crossing through soft snow and rocky patches for what seemed like hours.

The grand Gondogoro Pass quest ended at 1300 hours, the next day at Khuspang . Upon reaching the camp site, I joined my trekking mates for a meal.

As I lay in my sleeping bag, I thought back on the events of the day and realised how memorable the entire experience was. Despite the ropes and gear that we had, it had been an arduous and dangerous climb. I wondered how difficult it must have been for those before us who didn’t have the facilities that I had been provided with.

It was not just another adventure or exploration, for 10 minutes of my life I was literally on top of the world, and any number of words is not enough to define that.

The article was originally published in Dawn Blogs dated 21st August, 2012

I just came out of my hotel room, its dark outside  and i started to walk on the road. There are no street lights and i can see giant mountain silhouettes all around. With each step, i am gaining a distance between me and my hotel. It is black pitch dark. I am walking under the light of zillion stars. For a moment, i felt scared. This is so unlike i have experienced in the city. I have to go back to my hotel.

I couldn’t understand what was so scary about it. Was that the mightiness of nature or the dark odd surrounding?

[at the hotel lawn]

I grabbed a chair, rested my neck at back and started gazing at the sky. I see a lot of stars, shining and sparkling all over. After few moments, i found myself lost in those stars, far away from reality,into a fantasized world. It was very difficult. The sky was all shining as if there is some celebration going on. I felt as if those stars grabbed and pulled me towards them. Or the sky came closer to me. While lost into them, i felt my heart beat getting faster and tears dripping down my eyes. For the first time in my life, i felt alive….

June 19, 2012 – (From my travel diary – Yasin Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan)

Mantu is like a samosa, not fried but steam boiled. I was first introduced to it while roaming in the bazaar of Chitral where I came across a boy selling mantu on the road side. Locals in singles and groups were sitting around, enjoying mantu and a good gathering.

The first Mantu, which i ate in Chitral, was not freshly made. However, on my second try, I discovered fresh and delicious Mantu in a small restaurant in Gilgit Bazar, right behind PTDC Motel. This is the only famous mantu shop in the city, with a chef that hails from Kashgar (southern China). It is not a very fancy place: there is a kitchen by the entrance, and a few tables on which to dine.

Mantu dumplings consist of a spiced mixture of minced lamb or beef, couched alongside onions and spices wrapped in dough that is then steamed in a special circular steel utensil. It is steamed by placing number of mantus in a row on a circular tray with holes which is placed in the utensil a little above from boiling water and is then covered. Mantu can be served according to your appetite. The taste can be enhanced by adding black pepper, vinegar and chili sauce. Once can easily eat a dozen of mantu in one sitting.

During ancient times, mantu was considered to be the food for travelers along Silk Route: they carried dried mantu with them and boiled it to eat at stopovers. Mantu is widely eaten in Asia, especially in Afghanistan, China and Turkey, though with some variations.

People in northern Pakistan, who are said to have received the dish from southern China, are fond ofeating it in small-sized mantu- but i also came across some Chinese engineers while traveling on the Karakoram highway who were seating a much larger version of mantu. Mantu-making is now a family activity in most parts of Gilgit-Baltistan, where a small utensil can be purchased from Gilgit bazaar and mantu can be prepared at home.

(The article was published in Herald by dawn, June 2012 travel edition)

Gilgit Baltistan is famous for its high mountains, water streams, sand dunes and far away lakes. Some lakes are famous, more touristic and very much accessible. I have been to most of them. But there are some lakes into the wild, far away and difficult to access.

I was staying in Khaplu Palace and Residence with Serena Hotel in Khaplu when Abid, the Guest Relational Manager of the hotel pin pointed Kharfaq lake out of a general conversation at dinner table.

“It’s sad that I haven’t been to this lake in our own Ghanche District. I’ve heard it’s beautiful and hardly any people go there.” Said Abid.

This triggered me. I still had a spare day in Khaplu so I decided to explore that lake.

Route to Kharfaq Lake, Khaplu

Abid got excited with my intentions and hence we left hotel early next morning for the town called Kharfaq, a 45 minutes drive from Khaplu. We parked the car in bazaar on main road and Abid went out inquiring about the lake.

Everyone in the bazaar encircled Abid. He inquired with locals about the lake. We had to take permission from the local committee. I tried to understand their conversation but I found out Balti Language to be one of the most complicated one till now. I picked few words from their conversation like Jheel, Kharfaq, angrez, Karachi and Pakistani.

Some kids sneaked into the car’s windscreen and whispered “angrez”. I don’t know what gesture of mine made me look like a foreigner to them.

The committee there has a rule. One local guide must go with any outsider going to the lake and a fee must be paid. For foreigners, it was 1000 Rupee. Abid convinced them I am not a foreigner but a local journalist and hence they agreed on Rs. 500.

We left the car on road side and took my camera and lunch along. Meanwhile, Mohammad Amir from local village joined us as our local guide. Amir is a student of Matric, farmer and works as a local guide when not studying. I inquired about timings with him:

“I go in 45 minutes daily up to the lake”, said Amir.

Is it easy? I asked.

“Yes it’s an easy trek and you’ll take an hour to reach if you rest en-route. “

Amir did not know that I have spoiled stamina of city where we prefer walking less, travel in cars, and take lift in buildings rather stairs and try to park our car as closely as to our destination. And here Amir says pointing on top of the mountain “ONE hour”

We started our hike going through the village of Kharfaq, leaving the main road aside and taking a short cut. It leaded us to a beautiful path made of stones with lush green trees on both sides and a water channel flowing downwards.  The path then turned into a staircase made up of huge big stones, all the way up where your sight ends but stairs don’t. It didn’t scare me at all since I had that ONE hour hike in my mind.

Abid took lead while Amir was with me all the way up. Abid was in interesting character, he would talk with no expressions on his face and very difficult to guess what’s on his mind. He was always hiking ahead and the moment he realizes that he has gone too far, he would then wait sitting at some stone for me to arrive. He has good taste of music. He played his favorite ghazals of Munni Begam and Jagjit Singh in car. And on trek, his mobile with loudspeaker had the same music all the way up.

I was busy taking photos on the way while Abid kept intruding into my frame every now and then, posing for the camera. He was fond of getting himself photographed. He didn’t miss the chance of getting himself photographed with that big camera I have. He would pose in every possible way. I could do nothing but smile, click and ask him politely to sneak out.

The staircase never ended, I kept on stepping from stone to stone uneven, some low and some extremely high.  Big giant zigzag steps were taking us high. Hike was difficult and steep, but the only thing in my mind was the lake. Lakes always sound something beautiful and serene. That’s what kept me going. I had to take stopovers of 3-5 minutes after every 10 minutes of hike to give my spoiled city lungs some oxygen and rest.

Sometimes I would stop to take rest and pretend as if I am taking photos just not to embarrass myself in front of my guide since Amir was in no mood to rest. I kept on inquiring about the lake. Amir would only reply “not so far, just 10 minutes” pointing somewhere on the mountain up.

The way these mountain people hike is different. They are fast, used to of altitude while we are not.

The staircase ended up in beautiful mountain fields. Step by step, field by field all the way up spread miles and miles. The women were working in the fields while the view of the fields and river Shyok in the background was awestruck from top.

2 hours later while there were no staircase but a high mountain in front, Amir again said “10 more minutes”. The steep hike ended with the start of a dry rough patch. The green field ended and dry terrain with dark rocks all over started appearing.

Walking with no rest, hungry and getting disappointed with the timings, Amir finally said: we are there. That’s the lake. He pointed again at the piece of rock on top that according to my calculation was not more than at 10 minute distance. Adrenaline in my blood rushed me running towards the lake. I saw a glacier on top of mountain, and a patch of turquoise green water at a distance started to appear. It took us 2 hour 40 minutes to finally reach to the lake.

This lake was totally different then other lakes I have been to. There was no greenery around, just dark mountains and shady rocks that gave it a wild look. But it was astonishing and different in its own wild way with no sign of human around it.

I threw my bag aside rushed towards the water, sat on a stone, took rest and indulged myself in that tranquility. It was calm, peaceful and serene there. I could listen to the silence of water, birds flying and chirping high above.

No wonder best moments don’t come easy way. You have to work hard to get them.

The three of us had our limited lunch, I made some photographs of the lake and Abid again sneaked into the frame. I started taking his photos and couldn’t realize I missed the frame of lake without Abid in it.

Kharfaq Lake, Khaplu

We headed back taking nothing but the beautiful silent memories of lake side. I has happy that descend would be easy and take less time. To my surprise, it was easy until the big staircase. It became much more difficult, I had to step down carefully, taking care of myself not to fall.I had to put a lot of pressure on foot and knees while getting down every step.

We reached the road in 1 hour 45 minutes. It wasn’t easy way back. Amir asked if I feel pain in my legs. I couldn’t feel them at that moment. He said that I’ll get good sleep that night, with lots of pain in legs that only time can heal.

I said good bye to Amir, and thanked him for his support all the way. If he was not there and wouldn’t have motivated us with “just 10 minutes”. We would have had difficult time hiking.

Reaching the hotel, everything around me was circling like a 3d cartoon movie. I couldn’t think of anything except a warm shower and bed. I couldn’t feel my feet. It was all stiff and difficult to move. This usually happens if you take such hikes after a long time especially with a lot of pressure during descend.

After a warm shower, I jumped straight into my cozy bed, switched off the lights and tried to take a power nap. The moment I was about to lose my senses into sleep, the phone next to my bed started ringing. It was Abid online and said in one go; “How are you Sir? Have you taken rest? Can I send my USB now so that you can copy my photographs?”

I obviously had to copy the photographs or he wouldn’t have let me sleep that night.

Dan Millman in his book Peaceful warrior says “It is the journey that brings happiness, not the destination”. I realized that it really wasn’t the destination, but the whole journey that brought charm that day to Kharfaq Lake.

(The edited version of article was published in The News Sunday, July 01, 2012)

Trekking after 7 days, crossing through harsh tarrain and difficult baltoro glacier, i finially reached Concordia where you get to view four 8000+ peaks that includes world’s second highest mountain “K2″.

I was excited all the way from Skardu to Concordia, just to see a glimpse of that mighty mountain that have been playing with my thoughts and dreams for such a long time.

Upon reaching Concordia, i tried to concentrate on my west side to see if i can view the peak. The peak was hiding behind dark clouds. This saddened me. I wanted to see that mountain. I came all the way up there just to see a gimplse of it.

I found myself a big stone to sit and waited aslocal guides told me that this mountain plays hide and seek, will sneak out its peak from the clouds for a moment and will hide again.

I pointed my camera towards the peak, and waited for the right moment to click. It took almost 3 hours to the peak to show its first glimpse.

That day, we couldn’t see the whole k2. But it became clear the next day. But that’s true that this mountain loves to play hide n seek.

I couldn’t have imagined going to k2 base camp, in my wildest dream ever. But with time, I started developing this passion for mountains that initially took me to Himalayas, Hindukush and Karakoram as a tourist and then as a photographer. With time, I started developing this curiosity to explore whats beyond off the road in those mountains which required trekking. I started trekking, from day treks to two and then week long. I went to Rakaposhi base camp, Wakhan Corridor and other small treks, crossed glaciers, wild mountains, forests, rocks, rain and snow which then prepared and motivated me to do k2 this time. The mountain of my wild dreams.

Trekking along the Wakhan Corridor (Sep 2011) - photo by Ameer Hamza

I am all set with the accessories I will need on this trek and I’m tagging along a group, heading towards k2 base camp from July 01 onwards and I hope I come back, safe and sound to share my stories and photos of wilderness.

And I will not have any regret if the wilderness out there takes my life away, and let my tireless body be with the wild mountains forever. This could be my last blog post of life, or could be one of the first of an epic journey.

See you!

-Danial Shah

The whole Hunza Nagar view was right in front of me while i was sipping tea at Hunza Baltit Inn in Karimabad. I could see High Rakaposhi peak on my left while Ultar peak and Baltit fort were shining on my right. The sun was already about to set, sky was getting darker and dim lights on wooden hotel gave that evening a mood.

Hunza Baltit Inn, Karimabad

I kept on sipping tea in veranda till night fell. I saw a pitch dark rugged mountain right in front. Shining white snow was leading on the top. Above that, i saw stars. Not billion but zillion stars.

Star trail shining right in front of the veranda of Hunza Baltit Inn Karimabad

I ordered one more cup of tea, took my tripod and started taking pictures.  I started observing them. It felt like as if someone has sparkled shining  white pepper in sky. I tried to talk to them. They were calling me, showing the proof of their existence, shouting out aloud  ”We exist”.

Its very common in mountains that you get to see stars, uncountable stars shining above your head. My daily routinne every night had become to get out of my hotel room, order tea and watch stars. I like making shapes with stars as we would used to do in childhood.

If you are somewhere in mountains, be it in Balochistan, KPK or Gilgit-Baltistan. Get out of your room this evening, watch and talk to zillions of stars waiting for your call.

After a good local balti meal, i asked Chef Abbas of  “Khaplu Palace & Residence“ if he has something sweet to offer with local touch.

“We eat lots of apricots. Baltistan is famous for dried apricots. It keeps us warm since its cold throughout year. I can make Apricot mousse cake for you.” Said Abbas.

APRICOT MOUSE CAKE? The name itself watered my mouth and i could not wait any further to enjoy it with a warm cup of tea while enjoying the view of the 200 year old Khaplu Palace.

The balcony with the view of Khaplu Palace & Residence

It’s first week of June and i am in Baltistan. Karachi in southern coast of the country is experiencing extreme warm weather, Lahore in center is boiling hot while i can feel cold wind and see snow caped mountains right in front of me in Khaplu.

Dried Apricots are famous in Baltistan. I have seen them available at every second shop in this region since the first time i came here in 2009. Back in times i remember a Balti school friend of mine once brought dried apricots as a food souvenir for me from Baltistan. In fact, Pakistan is one of the top 12 producers of apricots.

Apricot Mousse Cake in Khaplu Palace & Residence

I love mousse cakes, my favorite had been Strawberry mousse cake but now this yummy fluffy soft apricot mousse cake by chef Abbas became my favorite one. I took my time to enjoy its every bite with tea. The only regret i have is that i had very less of it while in Khaplu. No where else i will be able to find it. I think i will have to go back there again one day.

Apricot Mousse Cake in Khaplu Palace & Residence

If you are visiting Gilgit-Baltistan, I would suggest  you to make a special trip to Khaplu Palace & Residence in Khaplu, a town 2.5 hours drive east of Skardu. Stay there, have local meals and ask Chef Abbas to make special local Apricot mousse cake for you.

Enjoy!

i see clear blue sky, i see pure white clouds, i see sand dunes, I see sand storms, I see last beam of light hitting the mountain, i see mighty river flowing, i see snow caped peaks, i see nature. I am in Baltistan.

These mountains have been calling me for 4 years. I remember my first time in 2009 when i first landed on this land. It was a dream come true. On my return, i made a bond with these mountains and asked them to make a promise; that they will call me every year to meet them. 4 years have passed and i am still meeting them every year. My affair with mountains is not less then any romantic tale.

It brings me close to nature, the Creator. Observing the last beam of light hitting snow caped peaks and then diminishing, vanishing in no time.  That is my best thing to do these days every sunset. It feels like as if the Creature has lighten up a candle made of mountain and snow.

Last beam of light on mountain, Khaplu

I feel powerful, but yet very small when i compare myself to the mightiness of nature. Not just the mountains, but mighty river flowing miles and miles, sand dunes changing its shape along the river side every day.

Khaplu to Seling

After every long day trip of photography and conversation with nature, i get to sleep in one of the most amazing hotels “Khaplu Palace & Residence“. A 200 year old palace, well preserved and now being run by Serena Hotel. Staying in such palace takes you back in history.  My room is again part of the palace, old, wooden work all over and dim lights.

Khaplu Palace & Residence

I feel alive. At least for days i will not have to face traffic jams and buildings. I will be staying a month or so in Gilgit-Baltistan, living close to nature. Reason behind is simple; i need a good conversation with myself, to explore myself.

Chillinji glacier from top of a mountain, Wakhan Corridor Trek

Chillinji glacier, as difficult as its name is. I would not call it my nightmare, but glaciers are famous for their panicky behavior. It acts totally wild and beyond your imagination. It will neither respect you nor take care of you.

It was my first encounter with any mighty glacier while doing a trek to Wakhan Corridor between Pakistan and Afghanistan that is only accessible through Pakistan. The glacier lies in between Chota Yasin valley and the camp site of Sokhta Rabad before you actually reach Karumbar Lake.

It took me at least one hour or so to cross it. The first look of the glacier from far away was a cave like structure producing weird sounds. Getting on to it, finding your path and getting lost in middle leaves you no other option except playing the maze game. If you are lost, you have to go all the way back from where you had started and find your own way out. Or shout as hard as you can so that your group members respond, and then all you do is follow their sound.

Crossing it was a big deal and the most difficult moment was getting off from it. There was no pathway, except an 80 degree dirty slippery incline. Falling from such a place is obvious and getting hurt was mandatory. The moment actually makes you realize the worth of your life. One wrong move and you are gone.

It is scary. It looks scary. It sounds scary. It acts scary. It really is scary. Glaciers are deadly, harsh but worth an adventure.